The classic position of middle Geurt’s Ridge.

 

It’s hard to believe it’s been ten years since I first climbed  Geurt’s Ridge and proclaimed it as “my favorite route on the mountain of the gods.” The route somehow crept back onto my to-do list this year with my goal to add more mountaineering back into my mix. And, with a rare empty Saturday I was stoked that Tim was interested.

Ten years had dimmed my memory. I recalled the route being mostly 3rd or 4th class – with an occasional bit of ‘real’ climbing. And I recalled the approach being quick and painless. Painless – yes. Quick – not so much. Being somewhat early in the season (mid-April) we decided to hike and climb in boots instead of approach/climbing shoes. And I think we both carried more than we should have. But none-the-less it was a classic day out – complete with a perma-grin from the butt slide into Neffs.

A couple of notes – as is my new deal:

First – climbing in boots was a drag. It killed my confidence and were never truly required. Having the for the descent into Neffs was nice. But that was only for 1/2 hour.

Second – go light. There isn’t much on this route that requires more than a couple of pieces of gear. There are plenty of horns to sling for running pro and belays.

Third – A snowy descent into Neffs is key. Albeit destined for a long bushwack if you are too late.

Fourth – the raps are both awkward. And an alpine bod harness is light, but not very comfortable.

Finally – yes, this is a cool climb. But how was this my favorite route on the mountain?! The fact that you are stuck looking at 180 degrees of city and can see people walking up the trail a few hundred meters away is a drag. There is nothing wilderness about this route! Despite being in the Olympus wilderness. Still a fun day in the mountains.

Looking down from the start of the ridge. Tolcat Canyon to the lookers right (north).

 

Tim climbing a section of perfect quartzite.

 

More climbing. More fun.

 

Descending a small drop mid ridge.

 

The first rap. Shorter than the second but much less awkward. Existing webbing wrapped around a huge block.

 

Descending off the second wrap. Some big consequences here with the snow.

 

Looking down the escape hatch into Neff’s. This is the first coulior off the summit to the south. Any would do – but this one tends to be convenient.

 

First [butt] tracks! Such a blast.
Dirty Geurty: spring on Geurts Ridge, Mount Olympus

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